Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh, Scotland. The Scottish capital may already be gearing up for the climax of festival season, but those walkable, historic streets are always up for a party, says Robin McKelvie
1. Before you arrive
Edinburgh is known as the ‘Festival City’ with good reason.We are not just talking about the world-famous Edinburgh Festival inAugust–actually a string of concurrent, multi-faceted festivals – but a string of parties year round, including the fireworks of Hogmanay (ScottishNewYear) and the Edinburgh Science Festival (sciencefestival.co.uk) in April. As such, you’ll need to book transport and rooms well ahead of your arrival. Fresh arrivals to the Scottish capital should be aware that since the Independence Referendum was announced back in 2012, politics has never been far from the forefront of people’s minds. Showing a genuine interest in the complex issues involved (when the conversation is initiated by a local) may help win you new friends. Re-hashing things you’ve only read in the UK media won’t. If you’re flying in, sit on the right-hand side of the plane to stand the best chance of catching a glorious view of the famous trio of Forth bridges; for city views, sit on the left.
2. At the airport
All flights land at Edinburgh Airport (EDI, edinburghairport.com), which lies 12km west of the city. The single terminal is wellequipped, with all the trappings that you would expect of the country’s busiest airport and one that is rapidly expanding.
3. Getting into town
The airport is now handily connected with a tram link that takes you to the heart of the city (edinburghtrams.com; £8.50 return) and which normally operates at intervals of less than ten minutes during the day. It may be more comfortable, but the tram is normally slightly slower than the main bus route operated by Lothian Buses into the centre, the Airlink 100 (lothianbuses.co.uk/airport; £7.50 return). The tram, though, is less prone to traic delays. Taxis from the convenient rank are expensive.
4. Other ways to arrive
A glorious way to arrive is on the Caledonian Sleeper (sleeper.scot). This overnight rail service leaves London Euston – a wee dram nightcap in the bar car is optional – and serves you up one of Europe’s great cities for breakfast. Swish new carriages are due in autumn 2018. With trains from England and southern Scotland, the East Coat Mainline (virgintrainseastcoast.com) ofers a more spectacular coastal approach than theWest Coast Mainline (virgintrains.co.uk). All long-distance train services arrive in Edinburgh Waverley, in the city centre, with some trains also calling at Haymarket a few miles to the west. Scotrail (scotrail.co.uk) operate most train routes within Scotland, with Edinburgh a key rail hub.
Essential Info
Population – 507,170 (2016)
Languages: English, Scots and Scottish Gaelic.
Timezone: GMT
International Dialling Code: +44
Visas: Not required by UK citizens.
Currency: Sterling £ (GDP).
Highest Viewpoint: Arthur’s Seat stands at a towering 251m, with views from the top gazing out across Edinburgh. It’s easily walkable from the city centre and makes for either a bracing start to a morning in the capital or a good spot to watch the sun set over the horizon.
Health issues: Same as rest of the UK.
Recommended guidebook: Lonely Planet Edinburgh (2017) is a relatively up-to-date resource; free local monthly magazine The List (list.co.uk) provides more current information about what’s on. For wider tourist information, the author of this guide brought along the second edition of his National Geographic Scotland guide, which was published early in 2018.
Web resources: Visitscotland.com is the oicial tourism site; for festival info, go to visitedinburghfestivalcity.com.
Phone app: Welcome to Scotland is available at welcometoscotland.com for free (iOS and Android) – an app that handily works both on and oline.
Climate: Due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, the climate is much milder than it should be given the latitude; though snow can briefly lie in winter. The warmest months are June, July and August, with often very pleasant conditions in May and September when the city is also quieter than in summer.
First Day's Tour
Start in the Old Town at the heights of Edinburgh Castle (edinburghcastle.scot; £17 in advance), whose ramparts and museums ofer an ideal introduction to the drama of this city of volcanoes, hills, sweeping water and remarkable architecture and history. Descend to the ‘Royal Mile’ (pictured), which Daniel Defoe once hailed as the finest street in the world. It’s a medieval timewarp that flows seawards in a flourish of palaces, a cathedral (St Giles), the Scotch Whisky Experience and many a historic inn. The denouement of this thoroughfare comes at the Palace of Holyroodhouse (royalcollection.org.uk; £14). This swirls in Hanoverian history, but also the stormy reigns of the Stuarts. The nearby Scottish Parliament (parliament.scot; free) ofers an insight into the workings of the nation.
Don’t ignore New Town’s boulevards and buildings, which hail from the 18th and 19th centuries. Its main thoroughfare of Princes Street afords views of the Old Town, as do its eponymous gardens. Further north still is the city’s favourite green lung – the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (rbge.org.uk; free). End the day back on the Royal Mile for a spot of shucking at the White Horse Oyster & Seafood Bar (whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk).
Essential Info
Population – 507,170 (2016)
Languages: English, Scots and Scottish Gaelic.
Timezone: GMT
International Dialling Code: +44
Visas: Not required by UK citizens.
Currency: Sterling £ (GDP).
Highest Viewpoint: Arthur’s Seat stands at a towering 251m, with views from the top gazing out across Edinburgh. It’s easily walkable from the city centre and makes for either a bracing start to a morning in the capital or a good spot to watch the sun set over the horizon.
Health issues: Same as rest of the UK.
Recommended guidebook: Lonely Planet Edinburgh (2017) is a relatively up-to-date resource; free local monthly magazine The List (list.co.uk) provides more current information about what’s on. For wider tourist information, the author of this guide brought along the second edition of his National Geographic Scotland guide, which was published early in 2018.
Web resources: Visitscotland.com is the oicial tourism site; for festival info, go to visitedinburghfestivalcity.com.
Phone app: Welcome to Scotland is available at welcometoscotland.com for free (iOS and Android) – an app that handily works both on and oline.
Climate: Due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, the climate is much milder than it should be given the latitude; though snow can briefly lie in winter. The warmest months are June, July and August, with often very pleasant conditions in May and September when the city is also quieter than in summer.
First Day's Tour
Start in the Old Town at the heights of Edinburgh Castle (edinburghcastle.scot; £17 in advance), whose ramparts and museums ofer an ideal introduction to the drama of this city of volcanoes, hills, sweeping water and remarkable architecture and history. Descend to the ‘Royal Mile’ (pictured), which Daniel Defoe once hailed as the finest street in the world. It’s a medieval timewarp that flows seawards in a flourish of palaces, a cathedral (St Giles), the Scotch Whisky Experience and many a historic inn. The denouement of this thoroughfare comes at the Palace of Holyroodhouse (royalcollection.org.uk; £14). This swirls in Hanoverian history, but also the stormy reigns of the Stuarts. The nearby Scottish Parliament (parliament.scot; free) ofers an insight into the workings of the nation.
Don’t ignore New Town’s boulevards and buildings, which hail from the 18th and 19th centuries. Its main thoroughfare of Princes Street afords views of the Old Town, as do its eponymous gardens. Further north still is the city’s favourite green lung – the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (rbge.org.uk; free). End the day back on the Royal Mile for a spot of shucking at the White Horse Oyster & Seafood Bar (whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk).
sources: Wanderlust UK , July 2018
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