The world-time watches of 2018
The world-time watches of 2018. This year’s Baselworld and SIHH fairs were the launchpad for a new generation of GMT and world-time watches. In an issue dedicated to the best of the best, it’s apt to begin with a Patek Philippe. Unusually, though, from one of the world’s most coveted watch brands, the Ref. 5531R WorldTime Minute Repeater is something of an acquired taste. That’s largely due to the intricate grand feu enamel image, depicting the Lavaux vineyard terraces on Lake Geneva, taking pride of place on the dial; enamel painting is so often a polarising feature.
This watch’s horological bona fides, however, are inarguable. Now part of Patek’s regular collection, the 5531R is based on a limited edition launched in 2017, which was the first world time minute repeater able to chime the local hour in any of 24 time zones. That’s quite a technical feat, and one that comes as part of a cost of $657,000. Somewhat more accessible, with a staggering bang-forbuck buy-in of between $4500 and $4900 (on strap and bracelet, respectively), the Tudor Black Bay GMT was one of the most talked-about launches of Baselworld 2018. This 200-metre-water-resistant, 41mm dual-time diver’s watch is powered by a COSC-certified manufacture movement, and with its beautifully Bauhaus form-follows-function, tool-watch styling – including the distinctive ‘Pepsi’ coloured bezel – it’s got looks, brains, heart and soul. Tudor’s elder sibling brand Rolex launched an equally newsworthy Pepsi-bezel companion piece, the GMTMaster II (Ref. 126710 BLRO). More refined, less ruggedly utilitarian than the Tudor, and priced roughly double, the new stainless-steel GMT-Master II provides a canny alternative to the costly white-gold iteration of the model launched in 2014.
The GMT-Master II is powered by the new automatic manufacture movement Calibre 3285, which offers improved precision, shock and magnetic resistance, energy efficiency and a power reserve of 70 hours. The bi-directional bezel that facilitates at-a-glance tracking of a second time zone features a scratch-resistant, bi-colour Cerachrom insert (introduced by Rolex with the ‘Batman’ GMT-Master II in 2013). The vintage-style Jubilee bracelet has its critics, but we found it supremely comfortable during our preview at Basel in March. Try one on – if you’re lucky enough to find a piece in store. Turning the vintage volume up to eleven, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere looks like it was ripped from the wrist of a steampunk adventurer. In addition to central hour, minute and seconds hands, the unique display includes a simple 12-hour second time zone at nine o’clock, plus two rotating hemispheres at 12 and six that will allow the geographically savvy observer to track the time anywhere in the world. Available in two case variants (each measuring 42mm), the stainless-steel iteration is open run, while the bronze is in a limited edition of 1858 pieces. Strap options include an aged calfskin or black NATO strap, and a rugged leather Bund-style strap for the muscular man of action.
At the opposite end of the styling spectrum, the Panerai L’Astronomo is as next-level futuristic and interstellarfocused as Elon Musk’s daydreams. Made to order only, the L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation Of Time GMT (to give the full, wordy title – she’s PAM 90 for short) is a watchmaking masterwork. Created as a tribute to the astronomer Galileo, it’s jam-packed with complications including moonphase (surprisingly, a first for Panerai), a second time zone, tourbillon, date/month calendar, equation-of-time, 24 hour and sunrise/sunset indicators. Big functionality requires a big housing: to wit, the PAM 90 comes in a 50mm case in titanium, though other materials may be available upon request. Another dual-timer with avant-garde, openworked aesthetics, the TAG Heuer Carerra Calibre Heuer 02 GMT is the first of the brand’s watches in several decades to use an in-house GMT movement. The chronograph’s restrained blue/black/grey colour scheme is nicely punctuated by a prominent GMT hand in red. Priced at approximately $7600, when one considers the presence of a manufacture movement and luxury touches such as the tricky bicolour ceramic bezel, the Carerra Calibre Heuer 02 GMT is plenty of watch for the money.
If, for whatever reason, none of the above seem to fully fit the bill, we recommend that you take a look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time. Elegant, classic yet contemporary, feature packed, horologically solid and, at just under $20,000, very fairly priced, it’s the Goldilocks option. ‘Best of the best’ is too often a matter of opinion, but the Polaris Worldtime Chrono is pretty well ‘juuuuust right’.
Sources: Robb Report Australia, July 2018
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