TR2 and TR3 Part 2
‘They are not necessarily harsh riding though,’ Neil adds. ‘A TR2/3 in standard trim is actually a bit sloppy – the reason they did so well in competition is that everything else at that time was even sloppier! If you feel a car is too harsh, then either something is wrong with the car or you need more time to adjust to the feel of a 1950s sports car.
‘Having said that, the steering box will come as a shock to many people used to the precision of rack and pinion steering and power assistance. We have been fitting rack conversions for many years for people who can't cope, but on the other hand we've had a steering box in our own TR2 for 600,000 miles. A box does make the steering heavier and there is inevitably an appreciable amount of play too, but we have introduced a spring-loaded top cover that helps to minimise that.
‘And that brings me back to my point about originality, and the need to match a car to your own expectations and preferences. A standard car could well be unsatisfactory in today’s environment. The drum brakes on a TR2 work fine and there will be plenty of readers who have those, the original seats and so on and are very happy with the car like that, but such originality will not be for everyone. However, while rack and pinion is a great system, there are some poor conversions out there so be careful, and they are reversible so keep the old parts if you convert yours.
Chris Loynes adds: ‘If you feel that rack and pinion is essential, then perhaps a sidescreen TR is not the right car for you. To my mind, the steering box is an integral part of the package that makes a TR2 a TR2. Remember too that if and when the time comes to sell, then some people will see rack and pinion as a bonus, but a lot of others will be looking for the original driving feel. I would recommend that any prospective buyers research the subject carefully and take a drive in a well-sorted original car before making any hasty decisions about modifications. Then they will have a better idea of which car best matches their requirements.’
That is a good point, because prices have gone up a lot in recent years and are still rising, so this is not the kind of purchase to be made casually. As Chris says: ‘With the rising prices some people have started looking on the TRs as investments, but to my mind that is the wrong attitude to take. Running a car costs money and fixing one costs more, so I would always recommend that people buy the right car for them with a view to long term ownership.’
As with any car it is easy to be blinded by shiny paint, but you need to know what that paint is covering. Unfortunately that is always going to involve some guesswork, but first of all stand back and decide whether the panels look ‘right’ to you. And if you don’t trust your own ability to make a judgement such as this, then take somebody along whose judgement you do trust – having a genuine expert and heeding their advice could save you a lot of expense and just as much grief.
Always be wary of a car that has been ‘restored’ cheaply for a quick sale, because it really can’t be done properly without spending substantial sums. Poor work should be obvious from poorly fitting panels or traces of filler. If you find bulging where the wings attach – which is easy to see – that is indicative that the car will need quite a lot of money spent to put everything right. Rust in the scuttle and the rear deck are both bad signs – because they are central to the structure, if the rust has penetrated here then the rest of the car is likely to be pretty bad too. In the worst cases, poor drainage in the front bulkhead means any corrosion there can quickly spread to the A-posts, bulkhead, floor and sills. Sill panels are not expensive in themselves and the outer panel is relatively easy to change, but the inner sill is a structural part of the bodyshell and that is expensive to replace. You’ll need to assess its condition from underneath the car.
sources:
Triumph World, June-July 2018
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