TR2 and TR3 Part 3
While you are under the car checking the inner sill, you can also check the condition of the chassis. These are pretty robust, but pay particular attention to the body and suspension mounts. As well checking for rust, you are also looking for signs of accident damage, particularly crinkles in the chassis legs behind the front wishbones. A rebuilt chassis is £6000, so not to be sneezed at but hardly excessive given how much these cars are now fetching. Mind you, that will pale into insignificance when compared to paying a professional to fit it and then to repair and paint a bodyshell.
As Neil mentioned earlier, some free play in the steering is normal. If it feels tight, then either some joints are seized or the steering box has been overadjusted. If that is to disguise terminal wear, then a reconditioned box will cost up to £600. Suspension bushes can wear just as they can on any car, leading to a sloppy feel to the handling and clonks on the move. If you are not used to this era of car, it would really pay to take along somebody who is so that they can distinguish between wear and the general feel of a 1950s car. Rear springs can sag; they are not overly expensive to replace, but be aware that the mounting pins can size where they go through the chassis and make a simple replacement job rather more involved.
The Wet liner engines are robust and reliable, but will show all the same symptoms of wear as any other unit. Again, if you are not confident of diagnosing worn valve guides or noisy bearings, find somebody who is to help you. This is where joining the relevant club before you buy a car rather than afterwards could pay dividends, as you’ll invariably find them very willing to help. They should be able to distinguish for example between a slight oil leak from the rear crank seal that is normal, and a more serious leak that will require the engine to come out in order to effect a lasting repair.
Once you have a TR2/TR3 that is well sorted and running well, then servicing and maintenance is not too onerous. ‘If you do what you are meant to do and grease it up once a year in the spring or every 3000 miles, they go on and on,’ says Neil. ‘A properly maintained car should be reliable enough to jump in and go anywhere without having to lift the bonnet. It does take some initial investment when you buy a new car before you get to this stage though, because somebody who knows what they are doing invariably has to go through the car sorting out any potential niggles.’ It is well worth making that effort, however. The driving experience is relative as far as comfort goes - far more comfortable than an MG T-Type but nowhere near as comfy as a TR4. Wind gets everywhere on the sidescreen cars, but that only adds to the fun and the feeling of speed. And don't forget they are a 100mph car anyway, with a torquey engine that does not have to be revved hard to have fun. Back in the day they introduced a generation to contemporary sports car motoring; today they are a great introduction to sports car driving of a bygone era. Embrace all that this entails and you will have a ball.
sources:
Triumph World, June - July 2018
0 Response to "TR2 and TR3 Part 3"
Post a Comment